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The Sporting Chef: Revelations

  • Editor's note: Introducing our new cooking column with Scott Leysath, The Sporting Chef. It is an occasional series. Meanwhile, visit our Outdoors Cooking Recipes page and contribute your own cooking suggestions.


    During the past several years, I have spent a considerable amount of time traveling the country while preparing fish and game dishes.

    It's my job and I'm fortunate enough to work with some of America's most talented restaurant, lodge and home chefs, learning new ways to prepare extraordinary wild game cuisine.

    Figuring out what people like to prepare for the table is hardly a revelation. I've found simply that the recipe has to be easy to prepare and it must taste good.

    I read somewhere that the government did a three-year study to reach the same obvious conclusion.

    In this evaluation, one group was forced to work all day in a kitchen, producing trendy, yet annoying dishes like tofu, squid and free-range liver terrine with Bahamian baby beets. This group, stuck in the kitchen all day, was antisocial and generally crabby.

    The other group spent less than 20 minutes getting the duck from the kitchen to the table and enjoying delicious duck with a horseradish sauce. They had time to fish, hunt, spend time with their families and generally enjoy themselves.

    If you can make something taste great in a short amount of time and with only a handful of ordinary ingredients, everyone wins.

    Duck with Horseradish Sauce is a simple crowd pleaser. Season some duck breasts with salt and pepper. Toss them into a pan with some olive oil. Sear on one side, then flip them over. Add garlic, a splash of Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoon or so of prepared horseradish and a half-cup of heavy cream.

    If you want it spicier, add more horseradish. If it's too hot, add cream.

    Spoon some sauce onto the plate, slice the perfectly cooked duck breast and arrange over the sauce. Garnish with a sprig of fresh herbs and stand back.

    Here's another easy one. Sear the duck breasts just like the preceding recipe. When you flip them over, add a little dry white wine to the pan. Then add the juice of one lemon, a few tablespoons of a good, creamy, blue cheese, some garlic and a touch of cream.

    (Yes, I know both recipes have cream. Cream tastes good.)

    Yank the duck breasts out before they are cooked beyond medium-rare. Let the sauce simmer in the pan until creamy. Bingo … Duck with Blue Cheese Sauce.

    By the way, I just read a legitimate study that debunked the notion that searing meat on the outside will "seal in the juices."

    It was determined that quickly seared meat was no juicier than meat cooked slowly with moderate heat. Another not-so-stunning revelation: Charring may not make the meat juicier, but it sure does taste better, at least to me.

    Here are two more quick, simple and tasty recipes:

    Duck with Balsamic Berry Sauce
    (Also great with any antlered game)
    4 servings

  • 4 to 6 duck breast fillets, skin removed

  • Salt and pepper

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 garlic clove, minced

  • 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

  • 2 teaspoons berry preserves (any type)

  • 3 tablespoons chilled butter, cut into 3 pieces

  • 2/3 cup fresh or frozen berries

    Season duck with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add duck and brown on evenly, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove duck from skillet and keep warm (but not too warm; you don't want to overcook). Add garlic, vinegar and preserves and cook until liquid is reduced to 2 to 3 tablespoons. Whisk in chilled butter until melted. Add berries. Slice duck breasts. Arrange on plates and spoon sauce over.

    Bourbon Barbecue Sauce

    Season your waterfowl or antlered game meat with olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill, pan-sear or broil to medium-rare temperature, about 130 degrees at the center of the meat. Just before removing game from flame, brush with some of this spirited sauce. Serve with extra sauce on the side.
    Makes about 1 cup

  • 1 cup ketchup

  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

  • 1/4 cup bourbon whiskey

  • 1/3 cup dark brown sugar

  • 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

  • 1 tablespoon fresh garlic, minced

  • 1/4 cup onion, minced

    Combine all ingredients in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes to blend flavors. Season with salt and pepper and cool. Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

    For more on The Sporting Chef, visit his Web site.